Kyoto and it’s pitfalls.

Kiyomizu-dera

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

My time is drawing to a close in Kyoto, a place which was for me a total letdown. Sure, the first night wandering the alleys of Higashiyama and admiring traditional architecture was amazing but this soon wore off. Everyday we had to return to downtown Kyoto, an ugly mishmash devoid of beauty. Then there were the hoardes of tourists, I wished for Isfahan again where you hardly see any tourists at the main sights. I expected something far more poetic in Kyoto, ancient, respected but in the end it was nothing but a conveyor belt of tourists queueing to take the same photo over and over. Kyoto though is slightly more aimed a foreign tourists than Tokyo with more English and Chinese signage.

Kiyomizu Kimono

What Japan is though is a nice little country to spend a holiday. I imagine everything you would like for a holiday is there – safe transport and hygienic food, music venues, city landmarks, things to keep the children occupied. I guess this is what the majority of people are looking for although for me I like to live a little bit closer to the edge.

Unfortunately there is no “edge” in Kyoto, hey, I would have been happy with just a sloping hill! It’s all just so darn pretty that for me took quite a while of getting used to.  Days were predictable, planning various walking trails in the hills, which temples of visit and which to avoid and because of an efficient transportation system everything ran like clockwork. It was just a matter of ticking off boxes and moving onto the next place of interest. I kind of just wished some manic, or even deceitful person, had approached us and led us off somewhere else, anything to break the mundane predictability of it all. The temples and museums in Kyoto close at dusk and by 10pm you’ll be tucked up in bed in some claustrophobic hotel room. Keep this in mind when visiting Kyoto….Osaka or Tokyo might be more suited to your needs.

Yasaka Shrine

Yasaka Shrine

Being a tourist in Kyoto is hard work. My advice would be to get up super early and be at the major landmarks by opening time. When travelling I try to rest and get up late so by the time I got to the big sights they were horrible (and horrible in this occasion is in no way an exaggeration) due to the amount of coaches full of tourists and gangs of Japanese school children ruining the whole experience. Kyoto can’t handle the crowds and by the time I walked up the alleyway to Kiyomizu-dera Temple my patience was frayed due to the crowds. One afternoon I headed to Sanjusangendo Hall to see the 1001 Golden Kannon statues which was mobbed. It is the longest wooden structure in the world and was so packed you literally were brushing against strangers, we also had to take our shoes off and the smell of a thousand socks almost had me vomiting into a flower display.

Kyoto Skyline

Kyoto skyline

I feel like i’ve processed all there is to know about Kyoto visually, I have no desire to try and get into hidden Kyoto and the geisha world which I imagine would be just more superficial awkwardness and confusion.

I might return to Kyoto as an elderly garden lover who long ago lost her marbles but not before, until then I will be more careful in choosing the places I want to visit rather than going to places which look good in photos.

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7 thoughts on “Kyoto and it’s pitfalls.

  1. Tourism just like mass produced and packaged food. The basic good of freshness no longer exists. You told it like it is. Anyone can travel anywhere and everyone does. Rats through a maze, no? Put up with hours of crap for a couple seconds of amazement.

    Sometimes I enjoy reading the travel writings from the 19th century…

    • Yes that’s why I’ve been looking at countries with mostly negative travel advice just to escape the mobs. Iran was really amazing because there are hardly any tourists there. I’ve been reading about an region called Maramures in the Carpathian mountains which is unspoilt, it is marketed as the last corner of medieval Europe, unchanged for centuries, so it sounds so appealing after the crowds of Japan. You should try and watch a tv program called “O’Hanlons Heroes”, it’s about travel in the 18th century, made for Dutch t.v. but in English about all the old explorers and writers. Hopefully you can stream these videos outside of Holland: http://www.npo.nl/o-hanlons-helden-1/01-12-2013/VPWON_1183794

  2. Wow I never saw someone who thought that of kyoto. I go back every year and never tire of walking its streets. I think it’s like Venice you can avoid the crowds by turning in an alley and people are really sweet in Kyoto too.

    • If I ever visit Kyoto again I would like to do off season, maybe in the winter. I can understand the appeal that city has over people although I expected far more so the dissappointment was far greater. Enjoy your travels in Japan! Regards, Grace.

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